Our next stop was in Koblenz at the confluence of the Rhine and Mosel. We stayed overnight on the site of the old campground we stayed at in the 70s but now it is owned by a German Motorhome Manufacturer – Knaus. They make overpriced Motorhomes and now it seems they own and manage overpriced campgrounds. We stayed outside on the Aire for the night then headed off down the Mosel. The river winds its way upstream and eventually into France.
All along the river vineyards cling to the slopes. Every inch of arable land is covered with row after row of vines patterned like giant green patchwork quilts thrown upon the hillsides. On the thin margin of flat land bordering the river banks beautiful Medieval villages overlook the riverfront. With so little flatland many are terraced along the lower margin of the hillside. Some of these places are of outstanding beauty like Cochem, Berncastel, Trarbach and Trier. We spent the first nigh along the Mosel beside the river at Neef, a small village about halfway up the river towards France. It was a large flat grassed area with lots of other motorhomes right on the river bank. People who come to Germany rave about the Rhine but this leaves it for dead. This by far the most scenic river in Germany and it's less crowded with tourists.
After running out of adjectives to describe just how beautiful the places we drove through were, we arrived at our next overnight stop in Trier. “Thirteen hundred years before Rome, Trier stood / may it stand on and enjoy eternal peace”. So reads a medieval inscription on the façade of the Red House in Trier market. This was an ancient Celtic city that became a major Roman outpost of the northern Empire. It wasn't as far north as Rome reached as the city of Koln (Cologne) was founded by Agrippa.
We stayed in an Aire on the side of the river again and cycled into town across the Roman bridge. The city is a mixture of ancient and medieval architectural styles with the dominant Porta Nigra the main feature of the town. It is the largest Roman city gate north of the Alps. There are also the remains of three Roman baths here as well.
From here the Mosel becomes the border with Luxembourg so we travelled along the Luxembourg side so we could fill up with cheaper fuel – its a tax haven like Andorra. From here the vineyards thin out and give way to forested hills. We crossed the border into northern France still following the river. This is le Pays Trois Frontieres – the land of three borders (France, Luxembourg and Germany) and noted for its outstanding landscape. You can hike and bike all over the area and visit its four major cities – Trier, Luxembourg, Saarbruken and the jewel in the crown of northeastern France, Metz.
Metz is the capital of Lorraine – of quiche Lorraine fame, but don't expect to buy one here as they seem to be available everywhere in France but here. But that is not what makes this place special. What sets Metz apart is the fact that is has one of the largest Urban Conservation Areas in France with over 100 heritage listed building, one the largest commercial pedestrian areas, is a designated French Town of Art and History and is nicknamed la Ville Verte the Green City because of the extensive municipal parks and public gardens. To borrow a modern phrase that is entirely appropriate (see below for one that isn't) this place is drop dead gorgeous. Even the municipal campground on the banks of the Mosel we stayed in was lovely and ridiculously cheap given that it is the height of the summer holidays here. All the great adjectives apply here and then some. My personal favourite is and shall remain forever Saint Stephen Cathedral.
What is it about contemporary society that takes a traditional word and rebrands it as dogshit. So it is with the word “Gothic” a modern day catchall for everything from “B” Grade vampire movies past and present to “F” Grade pop culture with its tattoos, body piercings, and Ford model “T” wardrobe. But here standing in the transept of Saint Stephen's the word regains its true meaning. This is a place of “Gothic” proportions both literally and figuratively. I am dwarfed by the sheer scale of the place and overcome with a sense of awe and wonder. The gaudy ostentation of Paris, Amiens, Chartres and especially Barcelona are absent here. There is a purity, a naked beauty and an overwhelming sense of light. I can't help but think that gothic cathedrals like this one were the inspiration for Tolkein's Dwarf Hall of Moria and the Lonely Mountain. Here there are no shock haired, inky pincushioned, night-shades breaking dawn wind. Here “Gothic” is a thing of beauty and inspiration.
We finally dragged ourselves away and began the journey west to Reims the home of champagne. And just like Lorraine there wasn't a vineyard to be seen anywhere along the way. I'm beginning to think all this is just clever marketing. Though Reims has a pedigree far more distinguished than Metz, visually and aesthetically it is but a shadow of the latter. The Notre Dame de Reims may be the coronation site of over 24 French Kings, including the Merovingians and the Carolingians, but it lacks the raw beauty of Metz. The city is a mix of German and French architecture but is not as impressive as others we have been to. Unfortunately we didn't have time to visit one of the famous champagne caves.
Our time is up. The last leg to Calais was hard to take as we knew that it would be our last port of call in Europe until next year. Although Calais is just another working port with a rather unkempt atmosphere, it was still able to surprise us. After travelling around a lot of Europe's coast we finally found a beach with real Aussie-like sand. We took the early morning ferry to Dover and just to make sure we were back in the UK, within a hour of our arrival it was pissing down with rain. And just to make doubly sure we were back the prices skyrocketed. In Europe we gained admission to some of the world's finest cathedrals for FREE and in Canterbury they wanted £9.50 to see inside Canterbury Cathedral. They really have no idea here. The place is sinking into the mire and all they can think about is what Kate and William will call latest addition to the “Welfare State”.
Well it is almost over. We will be taking Dal and the family to Cornwall for two week then its back to Yorkshire to store the van till next year. It's been a wonderful trip and we are sad it is almost over. Hope you have enjoyed the Blog. Love to you all and will see you back in Oz.
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