We left the Loire and headed across the heart of France.
The rolling plains gave way to the forested uplands of the Limousine. The fields gave way to the forests and we started to climb into the river systems of the Central Massif and the area know as The Perigord. It was a long day's drive and we finally arrived at the small village of Montignac on the banks if the Vezére.
This place would have remained obscure and forgotten but for the misadventures of a dog named Rocket. His owner Marcel rescued him from a sinkhole, which are common in the area. On closer inspection he and three of his mates discovered the now famous prehistoric cave paintings of Lascaux. That was back in 1940 and since then more caves and caverns have been discovered in the area. This is the Dordogne Valley and the entire area is littered with sites that stretch back in time some 25,000 years.
The original cave has been closed since the 1963 after the growth of mould on the paintings was found to be caused by the people visiting the site. The French government deemed the site so significant that they spent ten years to build an exact replica of the two most significant halls in the original cave. Lascaux II is not far away from the original and is breathtaking in its vivid depiction of fauna that existed 18 millennia ago. Figures outlined in black and coloured with red and ochre prance across the walls. The images are startling in their accuracy and the uncanny perception of motion. The tour of the cave is short and sweet and unfortunately you can't take photos, but you are down there long enough to take it all in and be awed at its presence.
We left Montignac and headed down the Vezére. We stopped at Le Thot, a sort of annex to Lescaux II where they have a small zoo of animals that are related to those on the walls. There are bison, horses and reindeer wandering in paddocks - it's mainly for school-kids, but the exhibit inside the small museum is enlightening. Life size dioramas depict life and the processes used by prehistoric man to create the tools, mediums and techniques to create the cave art. But the most outstanding feature of this museum are two sections of the walls of Lascaux that have been reproduced and with the aide of UV light the entire scope of the gallery can be revealed. Underneath the dominant bovine images there are previous drawings that cannot be seem. A herd of horses prance, and rear and gallop its way across the rock face. Beneath another reindeer graze. Even more enigmatic is that none of these animals were found anywhere near this area.
We continued downstream until we reached Le Roque St Christophe. The limestone cliffs skirt the river here and high up within the face of the cliff is a natural recess, like some ancient giant took a stick and gouged out a gash hundreds of metres long. Neolithic cave dwellers made their homes here high above the river and in later times a fortified Medieval town occupied every nook and cranny of the cliff. The entire length of Le Roque faces south and is bathed in sunshine all day. From this rocky vantage point the view across the valley is spectacular.
We stayed the night in the quaint little village of Le Bugue right by the Vezére. We walked into town along the river bank until we reach the paved quayside and stairs beside the bridge that led to the centre of the bustling little town. After wandering around we sat in the sun and had a cool drink in a bar by the bridge. We left the next morning and finally reached the confluence of the Vezére and the Dordogne at the beautiful town of Limeuil. This was once an important port town before the advent of more modern transport. Boats have been shipping cargo along this river since the Neolithic and Limeuil has been an important port since then. This is no tourist trap with gaudy souvenirs festooning every doorway despite it being listed as one of the Most Beautiful Villages in France. Working folk still live here and there is a pride in self, work and village that exudes not just from Limeuil but every village and town we visit in France. It's on display with every friendly Bonjour, every display of produce in every village and town market and the neatness and cleanliness of every village and town, not just the 'Plus Beau Villages'.
Limeuil is beautiful and the jewel in the crown are the panoramic gardens at the heights of the town overlooking the confluence of two ancient rivers. It's not a large garden or one that is organised geometrically. It just meanders across the top of the ancient limestone outcrop. It's covered in lawn interspersed with tall trees so you walk through sunny gardens that are linked by shady nook and avenues. The predominant feature is that of flora that has been and still are used by man. There are culinary herbs, spices and vegetables, medicinal herbs and flowers, flowers and plants used for dies, flowers and plants used for perfume and incense and medicinal herbs and plants. It's a wonderful walk through a fragrant garden all the way up to an open space at the highest point that overlooks the two rivers below. The final stretch back to the Chateau and exit is via a long tree covered avenue along the cliff face, from here you can look out over the lush Vezére Valley.
Our next stop was the small village of Vézac. It lies between two rival towns. A short walk from our campground was the imposing visage of Chateau de Beynac et Cazenac, which along with the town clings to the almost sheer cliff with a thin strip of land between the lower town and the river's edge.
The village and Chateau is typical of the fortified towns along this stretch of the Dordogne, the town built hard against the limestone cliffs with barely enough land by the river banks for a road. Here they build up the face of the cliff with the fortified Chateau on the highest point. The streets wind and zig-zag up to the heights with every building clinging precariously to almost sheer walls. The most important feature of all the towns along the river is the quay by the river. Boats have been the primary form of transport here since the Neolithic and maybe even earlier.
Beynac's rival is just a little down river on the opposite bank. Castelnaud la Chapelle in some way is more impressive. It sits at the confluence of the Céau and the Dordogne and there is much more land for the town to spread out by the riverside. The Chateau is very imposing and has been turned into a Medieval War Museum. We drove to the upper carpark which is also an Aire with dedicated parking for Motorhomes along with toilet and fresh water. The walk up from the village below is a killer. The upper town, as well as the lower, is beautifully preserved in its original state and the Chateau is outstanding. The exhibits and audio visuals are well set out as you wind your way up to the keep and battlements then back down to the kitchen and servants quarters. Every window is the frame of a real life landscape of outstanding beauty, painted with fifty shades of green. The dark thread of an ancient river weaves its way past lichen stained cliffs that tower over the valley and on strategic points villages protected by fortified castles of cream and salmon seem carved from the prehistoric stone.
We continued on past La Roque-Gageac a single line of houses that are trapped between the rock and the river, it's another 'Plus Beau Village' that was one of the major port of the Upper Dordogne. We crossed the river and headed up to the Bastide town of Domme. Bastides are French Medieval Fortified Towns, usually built with a square plan. Domme differs slightly in that it has a trapezoid shape due to the ridge top terrain. It is another 'Plus Beau Village' that is virtually intact. It is a beautiful town but its claim to fame is that the Knights Templar were imprisoned here during their trial. It has had a turbulent history, alternatively being held by French, English then French again, then being Catholic, Protestant then Catholic again. All this - 'Its' Mine, No Its' Mine, No It's' Not Its' Mine' - ended in the 17th century and the place declined, which has ensured it survived pretty much intact in its Medieval form until now.
Our last stop along the Dordogne was the regional centre Sarlat-la-Canéda. This is not a 'Plus Beau Village' but it probably should be. History has totally bypassed this 14th century town and it is a pleasure wandering around the largely traffic free streets. This is the centre for Fois Gras and Dordogne wines. The narrow streets seem to have 'cave à vin' and 'degustation' signs hanging outside every other shop front. We bought some of the local fare as a present for Dal and Renata from a little shop run by an Aussie. His mum is French and he has dual citizenship. It was nice to hear a familiar voice.
The weather was turning fowl and we decided to head south and find some sunshine.
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