I can now understand why artists and photographers find (and have always found) Tuscany so inspiring. At every bend in the country road or around every ancient stones town corner one could easily find a place to set up an easel or tripod. The sky is bright blue and flecked with scudding pure white clouds whose shapes conjure up childish visions of elephants and tigers and gay commercials for children's chocolates. The rolling hillsides are covered in ripening grain that shimmers and sways in the gentle spring breeze making it appear like a verdant sea. Green waves roil and pitch across the landscape, an illusion of fluid motion. Emerald islands are washed by this pale green ocean upon which stone and terracotta protrude above the oak and pine - little enclave farms and wineries dot the countryside. And on every prominent hilltop a fortress town that was once Etruscan, then Roman then its own petty kingdom, until of course they all had theirs arses kicked by the Florentines.
Where do you think the Medicis got the money to make Florence the jewel that it is.
It is these hilltop towns that we have come to see. After leaving Lucca (probably where all the De Luccas come from) we stopped at Volterra. From the car park it was a hike up a huge ancient stairway to the town. It is very ancient underneath the medieval overlay and goes back to pre Roman times. The Etruscan roots still show through in many of the building especially the walls. The place feels old just walking around the narrow stone paved streets. It is also somewhat of a throwback in the tourist sense. It has less of the crass over the top junk and faux history of so many of these towns. The locals even rejected the installation of cable internet throughout the town. It just encourages more freeloader tourists who pay as little as possible to get free WiFi.
The next stop along the way was San Gimignano, the poster child for Tuscan hilltop town and the complete opposite of Volterra. We were fortunate to stroll around the place early. We stayed at a really nice Aire just below the town. They supplied a free shuttle to the front door, a enormous and imposing front door it was too. We got there at 8:30am and wandered around the town for a good two hours. Enough time to see the best of the place before the convoy of tour buses arrived at around 10:30 when most of the shops open for business. The view of the surrounding valley was like every Tuscan landscape photo you've seen - a rich colour pallet of greens across the rolling carpet of hills broken here and there by neat rows of vineyards biased across the hillside like gingham patches on a woven cloth. We descended the central Via back towards the main gate through the throng of people recently disgorged by a fleet that would put the US Navy to shame. Along with tourism's usual suspects there was a huge proportion of the "Nuevo Riche" whose Yuens speak louder than Dollars in these changing times. We left them to the postcards, fridge magnets and cheap Chianti.
We traveled along winding country roads that appeared to be in exactly the same condition they were in 40 years ago (absolutely f...ing rubbish). When I mentioned earlier that Italy had gone backward in the last 4 decades I wasn't bullshiting. Even the Autostradas (which are tolled) are in a shocking state everywhere we have used them. After a suspension rattling and spine massaging ride we reached Pienza. The Aire we stayed in was just the corner of a car park with fresh water and a disgustingly smelly toilet block. The good news was it was five minutes walk from the centre of one of the most outstanding Tuscan hill town. This was one of those unexpected surprises that we keep having, as this was just planned as a night stop on the way to the next town (probably the most popular town in the Chainti region, but more on that next).
Pienza is a little gem. Easily traversed in a couple of hours and home to some of the best local produce (the Pecorino is to die for) and also some of the best artisans we have seen so far. Most of the ceramics, clothing, leather wear and general bric-a-brac is unique and beautifully made and displayed. Even the local produce seemed a cut above the rest. The other plus was the almost total lack of the usual suspects. Even the blow-ins seemed to be "in the know" as if Pienza was one of Tuscany's best kept secrets - don't tell anyone.
Our next stop was at what many believe is the quintessential Tuscan hill town, Montepulciano. We'll let me tell you Montipulc is a bit of a Pooch. It's not just a mish-mash of architectural styles it's just a mish-mash of a place. It's most famous for its Vino Noble wine and the best thing to do in Montepulciano is leave it on a wine tour, buy some great wine and keep going.
Our final Tuscan town was Cortona. Famed for the Francis Mayer novel and the Diane Lane movie of the same name - "Under the Tuscan Sun". Though both novel and movie brought Cortona to a new audience the place was doing very nicely anyway. This is less a hilltop town and more like a mountain retreat. It lies on the border of Tuscany and Umbria and is high atop what is actually the beginnings of the Umbrian uplands and mountains. The Rolling hills and plains give way to a more rugged landscape. The hills are more dramatic and lowland fields are replaced with forested heights. The climb up to the lowest level of the city is breathtaking and so is the view from the terraced car parks. Looking out to the souths the plain stretches away to the edge of Lake Trasimeno - where I sit and write this post.
Although it remains one of Tuscany's tourist hotspots Cortona has managed to maintain a more rustic and down to earth charm compared to the crassness of San Gimignano. It has managed to find a niche that is a between the over commercial San Gimi and the uniqueness of Pienza. The town is draped around the upper reaches of a 1700 metre mountain. To walk from the city gate (or even the lower car park) to the Etruscan ruins atop the mountain is a feat in itself. The climb itself is tiring but the view from the top is well worth the effort. To the east the mountains rise above the plain and march off to the south encircling the eastern side of Lake Trasimeno on their way. To the north and west the Tuscan plain stretches before you like a miniature world laid before an Etruscan King.
Our Tuscan adventure is now over and we now head deeper into Umbria to the home of the man many consider to be one of the few "real" saints to have lived. The town is Assisi the man is Francesco Bernardone. It's interesting that the "People's Pope" took the name of the "People's Saint". Perhaps there is hope for the Catholic Church after all.
Well it's time to go. It's dinner time and Margie is dying to try the local specialty Pasta al Paolo.
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